Resistance futile - My Georgian Wine Tasting Experience
One thing right away: I do not like wine. Contrary to all prejudices, even as a native of the Austrian Alpine Banana Republic, I do not appreciate its merits and, in the absence of alcoholic alternatives, have so far limited myself to red cola or peach splash.
In Georgia, however, there is no escaping wine, as I had to realize sooner or later, and so one day I set out on the long journey from Tbilisi to the Kakheti region to take up the challenge and let myself be convinced that I had hitherto been under a great misapprehension and that I should turn to the pleasure of the grape juice in the prime of my life after all.
True to the motto: “No risk, no fun”, three wine tastings were on the agenda. Early in the morning we were picked up by the driver who was to accompany us throughout the day and bring us back to Tbilisi in one piece, even if we were no longer able to find our way around on our own.
From Tbilisi to Kakheti: On the road in the barren nowhere
Without morning coffee, I board the vehicle and make myself comfortable for the long distance. After a short drive, I am a self-confessed caffeine junkie but overwhelmed by fatigue, so that a break is more than necessary. In some distance we fortunately see a small stall.
After this short stop we reach our first destination some time later. The wine cave of the Winery Khareba in Kvareli. Announced by trustworthy locals as Wine Disney Land, the winery lives up to this reputation. Already at the parking lot, one is greeted by the koi carps swimming in the in-house pond, shimmering around in all colors.
Confidently, I start the expedition vineyard, we move towards the main entrance and tunnel and I have to marvel again. A spacious square with colorful flower beds, fountains, stone sculptures and medieval vehicles opens up. A little further away, a real forest can be guessed. Behind it is the gallery, the center, and in front of it is a group of men in Georgian costume performing traditional songs.
We buy the tickets for the tasting, but decide to wait until after lunch to avoid being drunk after the first stop.
At the latest when finally a small white electric train stops directly in front of us and the chic uniformed driver asks us if he can take us to the restaurant, panic spreads through me and I ask myself if I am dressed properly for this undertaking.
At the latest when finally a small white electric train stops right in front of us and the fancy uniformed driver asks us if he can take us to the restaurant, panic spreads through me and I wonder if I am dressed properly for this venture.
We are driven all the way up the hill and dropped off in front of the impressive restaurant, where the service is as excellent as the food. Amidst guests who, unlike me, have arrived in their best wardrobe and stilettos and are still perfectly made up even at 35 degrees, I still don’t feel out of place, thanks to the lovely staff and the very Georgian hospitality.
Really? A Mountain with 8km Tunnels full of wine?
Kvareli Wine Cave - Right in the middle, instead of just there
After an exquisite meal, we take a digestive walk through the adjacent grove and then check in with our guide. With goose bumps and setting in, I realize at the entrance to the cave that my vest is still in the car, fortunately there are enough blankets. The inside temperature of circa 12-14 degrees, combined with my frostbitten disposition would have made the experience impossible otherwise.
The employee of the Winery Khareba is charming and friendly and leads us past thousands of bottles of wine into the tunnel and we learn all sorts of interesting facts about the tradition, the production, the company. The wines produced here repeatedly receive international awards and are popular with customers from all over the world. Lightened up with a few jokes, it is at no time a dry affair.
The tasting itself consists of three different wines per participant, accompanied by bread and cheese. Even though, as expected, none of the drinks presented really appeals to me, it is exciting to be able to taste the wine that has been traditionally produced in the Quevri for centuries. It is as unique as the Georgian language and deserves attention for that reason alone.
After toasting with our guide to the imminent end of the war and the victory of Ukraine, we say goodbye and take the mini-train back to the parking lot and our next destination.
Kindzmarauli Corporation Wine House: Tradition and Modernity
After a short ride we are allowed to visit the Kindzmarauli factory. The tour of the buildings is extremely entertaining, thanks to the wit and enthusiasm of our guide. Although there is a lot of repetition of what we have just heard, it is a completely different experience, since the factory, in addition to the obligatory Quevris, also includes ultra-modern facilities and the products are exported worldwide. Thus, the company skillfully manages the balancing act between tradition and modernity, which is reflected in the entire facility.
A large part of the well-tempered vault is used to store the bottles purchased by wine lovers from all over the world. These are stacked on the shelves, labeled with their respective names, awaiting their future collection.
After the excursion into the company’s history and the various rooms of the group, the tasting follows. For this, a comfortable room with a long table is ready. Between the tasting of the respective wine, there is always time for intermediate questions, and personal preferences are also taken into account.
I am allowed to test several wines, but unfortunately my enjoyment of them is also limited. My friends and acquaintances, however, are given a few bottles during the final visit to the store and still praise them in the highest terms.
At this point and after a total of about eight tasted and for me disappointing wines, I slowly begin to come to terms with the fact that in this life probably no wine lover should become of me, not suspecting that I would find the drink of the day only at the end of my journey. Surprisingly, it was to be another Georgian national drink, so far suspicious to me.
JSC "Corporation Kindzmarauli
Sesikeli Winery: A place to feel good Wine Tasting in Telavi
The crowning finale of our tour is a visit to Simon Sesikashvili. Expectations are high after the previous experiences and are not disappointed at all.
The host cordially invites us into his home, and I feel welcome right away. The guided tour at late hour is short, but due to all the information already gained during the day, it is appropriate and thoroughly positive. It repeats what we already know, but with a sympathetic personal touch that still makes the experience unique.
Here, time really seems to have stopped, there are no technical achievements except for a small manual bottling line, the winemaker lives the tradition of production in the Quevri without any compromise and completely renounces comfort for it.
When Simon Sesikashvili talks about the production of his wines, he does so with passion and there is no doubt that he has dedicated himself body and soul to his art. The design of the bottle labels shows the master himself, in one of his amphorae and is as distinctive as the taste of his wines.
In an informal atmosphere, I am allowed to get to know not only the products, but also the person behind them, interesting conversations about Georgia and politics ensue and quickly my aversion to wine is recognized. Therefore I get a smaller glass filled with self-distilled Cha Cha, with which I have no good memories at this time.
However, in contrast to the Georgian high-proof liquors I enjoyed beforehand, this time my eyes do not water and a pleasant sense of well-being sets in, which is why I stay with this drink for the rest of the evening.
Sesikeli Winery Telavi
42 Giorgi Leonidze St, Telavi 2200
Call for visiting Simon Sesikashvili
Phone: +995557070099
This is the most popular wine tasting of our editorial staff
My first Wine Tasting in Georgia: What remained of the day
Even this eventful day with its different tastes and adventures could not turn me into a wine lover. On the contrary, I’m afraid I realize after this excursion that any further attempt is futile. Nevertheless, I experienced and learned a lot. Not only about wine, but also about Georgia, its culture, tradition and hospitality.
Of course, afterwards I had to experiment with Cha Cha and very quickly reached my limits. Painfully I had to realize that there are striking differences and only this one time I got away without any consequential damage, which confirms the quality of Sesikeli Winery.
I was allowed to discover beautiful places and meet interesting people, I was well entertained and tasted in the best way. A wine tour in Georgia has much more to offer than it seems at first glance. I will definitely come back to Kakheti someday, but not for the wine!
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