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Tbilisi Rocks! The Magazine > Things to do in Tbilisi > Chronicles of Georgia Unleashed: What They Won’t Tell You, But I Will!
Things to do in Tbilisi

Chronicles of Georgia Unleashed: What They Won’t Tell You, But I Will!

Maestro Tom Cisar
Last updated: 11 June 2024 03:18
Maestro Tom Cisar
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14 Min Read
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Listen up, comrades! Forget what you think you know about Tbilisi’s Chronicles of Georgia. This ain’t your grandma’s tourist trap. Nope, this Soviet-era behemoth of a sculpture, once as forgotten as a bootleg cassette tape, has now turned into a colossal Instagram fever dream.

Contents
The Chronicles of Georgia: A Cosmic Mural You Can't Ignore!Getting to the Chronicles on Your Own Terms: A DIY OdysseyOpening Hours & Timing Your Perfect VisitRelax and take your time to see all the DetailsGO UP THE SIDE STAIRS: The Unfiltered Tbilisi VistaOur Conclusion: The Chronicles of Georgia are a Must-See in Tbilisi

Yeah, I get it, it’s overrun by selfie-sticks and fanny packs, but don’t be fooled. The Chronicles? It’s a trip, man, a trip worth taking. It’s like staring at a Rolling Stones album cover come to life, colossal and intricate. And if you play your cards right, you’ll catch a vista of Tbilisi that’ll make you feel like you’ve just dropped acid with a view.

Been there, done that, got the postcard—like half a dozen times, man! Day, night, summer, winter, you name it. Each trip’s a unique mind-bender, like Dylan lyrics in sculpted form.

So, buckle up, because I’m gonna drop some wisdom bombs. I’m your DIY guide to navigate this hunk of history, whether you’re rockin’ the public bus or rollin’ with the tour bus brigade.

You ready for a revelation? A couple of secrets, hush-hush, just between you and me, that’ll transform you from a clueless wanderer into a Chronicles connoisseur.

So lean in close, this is the stuff they don’t put on the brochures, but hell, it’s why you’ve got me!

The Chronicles of Georgia: A Cosmic Mural You Can't Ignore!

Whoa, slow down, Ace! Before you start aimlessly snapping pics like a mad paparazzo, let’s get some context here. What’s the Chronicles of Georgia monument all about, huh? Strap in, we’re hitting the time warp.

Photo by Arina Dmitrieva

Picture this: a humongous interplay of bronze, copper, and stone, perched like an elder god over Tbilisi Sea—that’s the reservoir, not some off-the-grid beach vacation spot. The monument’s got more backstory than a Tarantino flick, dreamed up by none other than Georgia’s art world maverick, Zurab Tsereteli. Yeah, the same guy who popped St. George smack in the middle of Freedom Square and gave us the ‘Apple of Love’ at MoMA. You catching my drift?

This titan of a monument? It’s been a work in progress since ’85. No, not 1885, don’t get cute. It’s like a rock album that’s been in production for decades, and it’s almost ready to drop. All the scaffolding that used to be this eyesore, well, it’s mostly vanished. Like the Grateful Dead said, “What a long, strange trip it’s been.”

And what’s it all for, you ask? Get this: a double-barreled tribute to 3,000 years of Georgia running the show, and a cool 2,000 years of laying down the Christian vibe. Sixteen towering pillars, each a psychedelic patchwork of metal reliefs. It’s as if Jimi Hendrix and Michelangelo had a love child, and it grew up to be this monument.

Some say it’s like ‘Tbilisi’s Stonehenge.’ I mean, sure, if you’re into that sorta thing. But for me? Nah, man, comparing this to Stonehenge is like saying Jim Morrison was just another rock singer. It’s a disservice, a cheap shot, and misses the whole freakin’ point!

Getting to the Chronicles on Your Own Terms: A DIY Odyssey

So you’re ready to make the trek out to this artistic behemoth, huh? Cool, cool, cool. But you’re in Tbilisi, a place where getting from A to B can feel like navigating a labyrinth designed by Escher. Don’t sweat it, here’s the skinny.

First off, Old Tbilisi? Forget about it! Chronicles sits like a brooding sentinel in a hustlin’, bustlin’ residential zone. And the gods of modern tech have blessed us; you’ll find this bad boy on Google Maps and all those swanky taxi apps. You know, like Bolt.

Now, for the free spirits among us, behold your two options to reach the Chronicles sans tour guide:

Option 1: Metro + Bus + Walk

  • Hop on the First Line (red) metro going north toward Akhmeteli Theatre. Get off at Ghrmaghele Station, 7 stops, roughly 15 minutes from Freedom Square. Can’t miss it.
  • Exit stage left, cross the road, and find the bus stop. Eyes peeled for Bus #360, the bus you want. Departures every 15 minutes, starts at 6:30 am. You with me?
  • The fare’s a measly 1 GEL because, let’s face it, you’re transfer savvy. Know the ropes with Tbilisi public transport, like how to get that rechargeable card, alright?
  • Bus 360 takes a scenic route, swinging you by the northern edge of the Tbilisi Sea. Cue drumroll—Chronicles on the horizon! 20 minutes, you’re there, Cadet Corps station. Mark it.
  • Last leg, a stroll. About 850 meters, 10-15 minutes of shoe leather. Road or hill path, your call. Either way, it’s a climb, but you didn’t come here for flat, did you?

Now, don’t say I never gave you anything. This is grade-A, DIY, reach-the-promised-land kinda info right here. Get on it!

Option 2: A Taxi to the Chronicles of Gerogia or Your Own Set of Wheels

Ah, the taxi—a sleek, modern chariot for those who want zero hassle. Rolling up from Freedom Square? That’ll set you back around 12-15 GEL if you’re navigating the digital highway with Bolt. Trust me, in Tbilisi, app-booking is the way to cheat the system. Traffic pending, you’re looking at a 10-20 minute spin.

Feeling a bit hybrid? Go Metro to Ghrmaghele, then hail a Bolt to ascend the hill. Five GEL, boom, you’re on top of the world. Ghrmaghele’s bustling; you won’t have to wave down cabs like you’re flagging down a Rolling Stones encore.

Return trip? Bolt’s got your back. They’ll swing by the Chronicles faster than you can say, “I conquered Tbilisi’s art scene.”

Got your own wheels? A little lone ranger action? Pull right into the parking lot in front of the monument. Space is tight but hey, that’s why they invented parallel parking, right?

So there you go, no excuses. Whether you’re bus hopping like a seasoned commuter or cruising up in a Bolt like Georgian royalty, the Chronicles of Georgia await. Catch you at the top!

Opening Hours & Timing Your Perfect Visit

Let’s talk access, folks. The Chronicles of Georgia is the ultimate open house—no gate, no guards, no clocks ticking. The place is open 24/7, holidays included. The price tag? Free. Zilch. Nada.

Now, for that Insta-golden shot, you’re gonna want to aim for afternoon. The monument’s front is a west-side affair, offering optimal lighting without a solar glare-off ruining your pics. Midday? Shadow city. Not ideal unless you’re going for the moody artist vibe.

However, don’t expect solitude if you swing by in the afternoon. That’s when the place turns into the Times Square of Tbilisi. Wanna beat the crowds? Crack of dawn is your friend. Especially in summer, when the thermometer skyrockets and wildfires have been known to blaze nearby.

Aiming to check out the church and workshops? Don’t show up before 10 am. You’ll find closed doors and maybe even a judgmental pigeon or two.

For a nocturnal twist, consider a night visit. The place turns into an atmospheric marvel with its illuminations. It’s like the monument is auditioning for a spot in a Tim Burton movie. But listen, if you’re a solo adventurer, maybe skip the late-night escapade for safety reasons. Bus #360 clocks out after 10 pm, so unless you’ve got your own ride, aim for a sunset affair.

So pick your ideal moment. Whether you’re an early bird, a sunset chaser, or somewhere in between, the Chronicles are ready to impress.

Relax and take your time to see all the Details

Yes, the Chronicles of Georgia and the flowing concrete staircase that leads to it is a super cool photo spot – but please don’t even think of coming all the way up here and not taking the time to view the monument properly! The Chronicles is closely connected to important documents known as The History of Georgia or Life of Kartli, the main primary source of information about the nation’s history. This, combined with its religious overtones, makes the monument a sacred and esteemed place for many Georgians. The main part of the Chronicles is the 16 columns that reach 35 metres high. (35 metres is the official height, but I wouldn’t be surprised if it’s actually 33 metres – other monuments in Tbilisi were built this way to symbolise the age of Jesus when he was crucified). Each of the columns is completely covered with bronze and copper sculptural reliefs. There are three horizontal ‘layers’, a triptych that you can read from left to right. Each strata tells a different story. The bottom level contains square panels that each recall an important tale from the Bible: Noah and the flood, the Last Supper, etc. Some of these panels are noticeably newer and still tinged green and brown.

The tall middle band is more decorative and depicts important characters from Georgian history, including important monarchs, diplomats, poets and writers. The columns around the periphery have a third and final top layer, which reveals important Georgian traditions such as the Rtveli wine harvest. Some of these panels are very ‘Soviet’ in style, with sun and astrological symbols mixed in. Sadly there is no written record of what exactly is depicted on each panel, so trying to figure out who’s who is a bit of a guessing game. The middle panels are the easiest to decipher – you can often tell who the character is based on the objects and accoutrements they are surrounded by. For example, King David the Builder is always pictured with a tiny church in his hand, while Shota Rustaveli has his panther in tow.

GO UP THE SIDE STAIRS: The Unfiltered Tbilisi Vista

Alright, folks, two staircases flank the Chronicles, acting like escalators to panoramic heaven. Don’t cheat yourself—climb them.

  • Southern Gaze: Feast your eyes on the Tbilisi Sea. It’s not your typical beach holiday view, but it’s mesmerizing in its own right.

  • Concrete Jungle: Turn around, and you’re in the urban sprawl—Brutalist-style blocks in Gldani and Zghvisubani, and Saburtalo’s own Nutsubidze Skybridge. It’s Tbilisi, uncorked and unvarnished.

  • Details, Details: On this elevated catwalk, you also get an intimate angle of the Chronicles. Details you might’ve skimmed over at ground level are suddenly in your face.

The Sea of Tbilisi viewed from the Chronicles of Georgia

So, whether it’s your first venture beyond the Old Town or you’re a Tbilisi veteran, this view gives you the uncut narrative of the city. Walk it, see it, digest it.

Our Conclusion: The Chronicles of Georgia are a Must-See in Tbilisi

There you have it—your mental rolodex on the Chronicles of Georgia is bursting at the seams. This place isn’t just a photo op; it’s a spiritual, historical, and architectural layer cake, and every bite tastes different.

One drawback: you can’t wash it down with a cuppa Joe or grab a quick bite because there’s no café or restaurant on site.

Don’t fret, the digital age is your savior. Use Glovo or Wolt to deliver your favorite brew or snack straight to the Chronicles. It might not be the traditional way to experience a monument, but then again, when in Tbilisi, throw tradition to the wind—just a little.

So go, experience the Chronicles. It’s a monumental memory in the making, even if you have to BYOC—Bring Your Own Coffee.

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By Maestro Tom Cisar
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Thomas is an advocate of gonzo journalism and considers himself a badass "PressHole". He declares war on lukewarm journalism, to hell with AI-generated texts, the world needs honest reports that get under your skin.Tom was born 1982 in so boring Austria, has a career in IT and marketing behind him and has now been living as an "analogue nomad" for over 10 years and describes himself as Citizen Earth. Since the end of the pandemic, he has been living in fluffing awesome Tbilisi and has launched the online magazine "Tbilisi Rocks!".His mission is to create a vibrant magazine for Tbilisi that appeals to locals, expats and tourists alike. His promise is "We will rock you" - so get ready for hundreds of thousands of cool articles, reviews and other fluff.
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